PRESS RELEASE
Car Owners Holding Onto Vehicles Significantly Longer, for at Least 50,000 More Miles, According to New Survey From AutoMD(TM) Auto Repair Experts
Consumers opting to hold and repair, rather than purchase anew, with 56% planning to drive until vehicle dies
CARSON, Calif., Feb. 10 /PRNewswire-FirstCall/ — AutoMD(TM) (www.automd.com), the most comprehensive and unbiased free online auto repair resource, today released the results of a survey revealing that car owners are putting many more miles on their current vehicles, 50,000 or more, than on their previous vehicle — with the majority of respondents planning to keep their vehicle until it dies. The report also revealed that the economy is influencing many to do their own repairs and pay more attention to maintenance on their current vehicle.
The AutoMD survey, conducted online among car owners in December 2009 and January 2010, offers a snapshot of car owners’ intentions about their current vehicle with clear indications that consumers are firmly breaking out of the buy-every-few-years cycle, opting to drive and repair instead.
Measured by Miles, Car Owners Plan to Drive Much Further in Current Vehicle
Nearly 50% of survey respondents indicated that their current vehicle had over 100,000 miles. A combined 69% reported that they planned to drive their current vehicle for 150,000 or more miles (13%), or until their vehicle dies (56%).
Nearly four in five (77%) plan to drive their current vehicle for 50,000 (or more) miles than they drove their previous vehicle. Less than 12% said they will keep their current vehicle for fewer miles than their previous vehicle.
Car Owners Opting to Repair and Maintain in Tough Economy
Fifty-four percent of respondents reported spending $500 or more on yearly repairs to their vehicle, with 21% reporting that they spend $1,000 or more. Forty-four percent report that tight budgets are driving them to either pay more attention to maintenance and repairs or do the repairs themselves. When asked for the number one reason for holding onto their vehicle for 100,000 miles or more, one-quarter stated that “in this economy, I simply can’t afford not to” and nearly thirty percent indicated that being vigilant with repairs and service should keep it in good running condition.
“Not only are consumers holding onto their vehicles for years longer but, more significantly, for miles longer, opting to repair and maintain rather than purchasing new,” said AutoMD President Shane Evangelist. “We estimate that these car owners will be spending at least an additional $2,500 on repairs over the intended life of their vehicle -and it is critical that they have accurate, unbiased information and tools to make the best possible repair decisions when spending those precious dollars. We launched AutoMD(TM) to do just this: empower car owners with free information on the best and most affordable options for repairing their vehicle in these tough economic times.”
AutoMD was launched in January 2010 as the most complete and unbiased free online automotive repair resource designed to empower car owners with the best and most affordable way to repair their vehicles — whether they’re heading to the shop or doing it themselves. Unlike any other site, AutoMD allows both car owners and DIYers to 1. Diagnose car problems, 2. Know how much auto repairs should cost, 3. Understand the steps needed and the time it should take with How-to Auto Repair guides, and 4. Find the right local auto repair shop at the right price for their issue.
AutoMD is a wholly-owned subsidiary of US Auto Parts Network, Inc., (NASDAQ:PRTS) .
The AutoMD Mileage Survey was conducted December 2009 through January 2010. The survey represents a snapshot of car owner intentions about their current vehicle. Participants identified as either DIYers (Do It Yourself) or DFMers (Do It For Me), with minimal trend differences between groups.
About AutoMD
AutoMD(TM) (www.automd.com), a wholly-owned subsidiary of US Auto Parts Network, Inc., (NASDAQ:PRTS) , is the most comprehensive and unbiased free online automotive repair resource designed to empower car owners with the best way to repair their vehicles. Backed by a team of automotive data specialists and certified auto mechanics who are advocates for the car owner, AutoMD integrates unprecedented repair pricing transparency, easy-to-use diagnostic tools and How-to-Repair guides, repair shop listings geo-customized for each issue and a Repair-apedia of consumer-contributed advice into a complete and unbiased online repair experience that shifts the power to car owners.
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I have 290,000 on my 1986 VW GTI, original engine with no rebuilds. I also had put a few years of hard towing use on that car. At that mileage though, the engine needed some serious work. The car has been parked for many years now. Couldn’t stand to part with the car, since I was the original purchaser. Planning on dropping a new 2.0l engine in it in the next few months to relive the “glory days”.
I have 290,000 on my 1986 VW GTI, original engine with no rebuilds. I also had put a few years of hard towing use on that car. At that mileage though, the engine needed some serious work. The car has been parked for many years now. Couldn’t stand to part with the car, since I was the original purchaser. Planning on dropping a new 2.0l engine in it in the next few months to relive the “glory days”.
I have 200,000 on my ’96 Saturn so I’ve been looking at new fuel effecient cars- I found a virtual tour on a website its realy cool http://www.londoff.com/ou/florissant-chevrolet//console.do?page=f_vtd
I have 200,000 on my ’96 Saturn so I’ve been looking at new fuel effecient cars- I found a virtual tour on a website its realy cool http://www.londoff.com/ou/florissant-chevrolet//console.do?page=f_vtd
Those F150s are tough. I have a 97 with 260,000 – I bought it 7 years ago w/200,000. Regular oil changes and maint. Also have a 97 Camry w/204,000 miles – synthetic oil since new. Both still run strong, though the truck burns about 1 1/2 qts between changes. Getting rid of the Camry this spring for something newer and smoother on the rode.
Also have an 84 Benz CDTurbo with over 300,000 (odometer stopped about 8 years ago) though it’s been driven little in the past 5 years. Then there’s the 92 Benz 500SL with 84,000 and 95 Sportster with 15,000. Guess I won’t get to that 1,000,000 mile club before I trade and thin the herd. LOL
Those F150s are tough. I have a 97 with 260,000 – I bought it 7 years ago w/200,000. Regular oil changes and maint. Also have a 97 Camry w/204,000 miles – synthetic oil since new. Both still run strong, though the truck burns about 1 1/2 qts between changes. Getting rid of the Camry this spring for something newer and smoother on the rode.
Also have an 84 Benz CDTurbo with over 300,000 (odometer stopped about 8 years ago) though it’s been driven little in the past 5 years. Then there’s the 92 Benz 500SL with 84,000 and 95 Sportster with 15,000. Guess I won’t get to that 1,000,000 mile club before I trade and thin the herd. LOL
Wow, I feel an amateur with my Peugeot 106 at 116,000. It’s still going strong though.
Wow, I feel an amateur with my Peugeot 106 at 116,000. It’s still going strong though.
I have put in excess of 380,000 kms (that’s 238,000 miles) on something like 4 cars with another 250,000 km on my current daily driver which considering Earth to Moon is 384,403 km sounds like a lot.
As a professional driver I routinely drove in excess of 80,000 kms (50,000 mile) annually for about a decade. In order to get reliable service out of mere cars (as opposed to commercial vehicles/trucks that are slightly more durable) required almost weekly maintenance and repairs to keep the things on the road.
Obviously this becomes more frequent and more expensive as the vehicle ages until you get tired of fixing it every fortnight and sell it as the cost of repairs (and this is doing ALL the work myself) start to become a significant % of the cars resale value.(ie. it’s not worth spending the money on it to fix it)
The trouble comes in waves, 150,000 kms major parts start to fail off it, then approx every 100,000 after that. After the rebuild at 350,000 km which usually involves an expensive gearbox rebuild, there isn’t much that hasn’t been removed from the car at least once.
Can’t wait for my first EV… electric motors don’t suffer anything like the heat stress of an ICE and could last in excess of a million kms EASY (perhaps as many as 6 million km… i.e. an EV will out live it’s owner!
I have put in excess of 380,000 kms (that’s 238,000 miles) on something like 4 cars with another 250,000 km on my current daily driver which considering Earth to Moon is 384,403 km sounds like a lot.
As a professional driver I routinely drove in excess of 80,000 kms (50,000 mile) annually for about a decade. In order to get reliable service out of mere cars (as opposed to commercial vehicles/trucks that are slightly more durable) required almost weekly maintenance and repairs to keep the things on the road.
Obviously this becomes more frequent and more expensive as the vehicle ages until you get tired of fixing it every fortnight and sell it as the cost of repairs (and this is doing ALL the work myself) start to become a significant % of the cars resale value.(ie. it’s not worth spending the money on it to fix it)
The trouble comes in waves, 150,000 kms major parts start to fail off it, then approx every 100,000 after that. After the rebuild at 350,000 km which usually involves an expensive gearbox rebuild, there isn’t much that hasn’t been removed from the car at least once.
Can’t wait for my first EV… electric motors don’t suffer anything like the heat stress of an ICE and could last in excess of a million kms EASY (perhaps as many as 6 million km… i.e. an EV will out live it’s owner!
Exactly why I take public transportation now.
Exactly why I take public transportation now.
347,000 kilometers (~215615 miles) on a 78″ Toyota Corolla, sold it for $650 10 years back, drive train was rock solid, body rotted out back in BC Canada.
386,242 kilometers (240,000 miles) on a 90 Subaru legacy, heads and radiator were toast, sold it for $300, it is still being run around in Clarkston WA.
347,000 kilometers (~215615 miles) on a 78″ Toyota Corolla, sold it for $650 10 years back, drive train was rock solid, body rotted out back in BC Canada.
386,242 kilometers (240,000 miles) on a 90 Subaru legacy, heads and radiator were toast, sold it for $300, it is still being run around in Clarkston WA.
97 Nissan Pathfinder with 250,120 miles. Plan on driving it until it dies and then I will buy USED, not new.
97 Nissan Pathfinder with 250,120 miles. Plan on driving it until it dies and then I will buy USED, not new.
We put 360K on our ’89 Volvo before we sold it. We plan on the same for our ’01. Don’t know if my Kia will make it that far, though.
We put 360K on our ’89 Volvo before we sold it. We plan on the same for our ’01. Don’t know if my Kia will make it that far, though.
My record was 280,000 on a 1975 Cutlass Supreme. I don’t know how that car lasted so long, it must have been the cross country driving. Every 5,000 miles, it needed a wheel alignment, every 75,000 a new transmission, the front ball joints broke (front tire falling off!) 4 times on the car (fortunately never more than 5 miles from home), and new brake discs 3 times. All this in 7-8 years.
When the car died in 1983, the engine had rotted through, as the water seals rotted away. I had the bad luck for it to die at the Harris Ranch on I-5. For those who do not travel on Interstate 5 in California, the Harris Ranch is the “gag” stretch on I-5, the order from the cow manure smells for miles. We gagged for 4 hours until we could get someone to toe the car away and arrange for a rental.
Current car, a RAV4, has 100,000 miles and I plan on keeping it for 3-5 more years.
My record was 280,000 on a 1975 Cutlass Supreme. I don’t know how that car lasted so long, it must have been the cross country driving. Every 5,000 miles, it needed a wheel alignment, every 75,000 a new transmission, the front ball joints broke (front tire falling off!) 4 times on the car (fortunately never more than 5 miles from home), and new brake discs 3 times. All this in 7-8 years.
When the car died in 1983, the engine had rotted through, as the water seals rotted away. I had the bad luck for it to die at the Harris Ranch on I-5. For those who do not travel on Interstate 5 in California, the Harris Ranch is the “gag” stretch on I-5, the order from the cow manure smells for miles. We gagged for 4 hours until we could get someone to toe the car away and arrange for a rental.
Current car, a RAV4, has 100,000 miles and I plan on keeping it for 3-5 more years.
I have been driving my 1939 Ford every day for 16 years, my 1931 Ford for 13 years, my 59 Ford for 9 years, my 57 Chevy for about 17 years, my parents drove the 66 Chrysler 25, I have been driving it for 14.
I have more cars but NEVER anything newer than 40 years old
I have been driving my 1939 Ford every day for 16 years, my 1931 Ford for 13 years, my 59 Ford for 9 years, my 57 Chevy for about 17 years, my parents drove the 66 Chrysler 25, I have been driving it for 14.
I have more cars but NEVER anything newer than 40 years old
My grandfather put something like 360,000 miles on his 1928 Dodge – of course, as a mechanic, he probably rebuilt the engine every 50,000 miles. It was still running when he sold it in the early 1950′s.
My grandfather put something like 360,000 miles on his 1928 Dodge – of course, as a mechanic, he probably rebuilt the engine every 50,000 miles. It was still running when he sold it in the early 1950′s.
I just bought a 2010 Subaru and I plan to keep it a while. I can’t say I’ll drive it 50k more miles than the car it replaced, which was a 1988 Volvo 240 that has 276,000+ miles on it. I put on 216,000 miles myself during the 15 years I owned it. No major engine or transmission work during that time. Now my son has it and he’ll put even more miles on it.
I just bought a 2010 Subaru and I plan to keep it a while. I can’t say I’ll drive it 50k more miles than the car it replaced, which was a 1988 Volvo 240 that has 276,000+ miles on it. I put on 216,000 miles myself during the 15 years I owned it. No major engine or transmission work during that time. Now my son has it and he’ll put even more miles on it.
My 1995 Honda Prelude S has over 225K on its odometer.
Maintaining it has been a dream; no major repairs needed over the life of the car.
I think the doors will fall off before the engine stops running.
My 1995 Honda Prelude S has over 225K on its odometer.
Maintaining it has been a dream; no major repairs needed over the life of the car.
I think the doors will fall off before the engine stops running.
My ’92 Beretta GTZ is my daily driver (60 mile round trip every day) and it’s approaching 185,000 miles. I put a new head on it in 2008 and now it needs suspension work, but I plan to drive it until it dies. Last summer I rebuilt the engine in my ’92 Silverado, at the 258,000 mile mark, but plan to keep it forever.
My ’92 Beretta GTZ is my daily driver (60 mile round trip every day) and it’s approaching 185,000 miles. I put a new head on it in 2008 and now it needs suspension work, but I plan to drive it until it dies. Last summer I rebuilt the engine in my ’92 Silverado, at the 258,000 mile mark, but plan to keep it forever.
Until this year I hadn’t thought about it much. But since the Chicago thug government just handed over control of GM to the UAW, I’m now honking mad.
I just bought a Toyota this week. First time ever. Traded in my Government Motors car for it. Never again.
I’ll be driving this Toyota for as long as it will go, which is substantially farther than a GM will go, and then I”ll buy another Toyota. If they’re still available.
!@#$%^&*( Stalinists. They’ll have to kill me and seize my bank accounts to ever get me to buy another GM. And judging by all our economic future, buying new cars might become a sport of the elite, like windsurfing off the Vineyard.
Until this year I hadn’t thought about it much. But since the Chicago thug government just handed over control of GM to the UAW, I’m now honking mad.
I just bought a Toyota this week. First time ever. Traded in my Government Motors car for it. Never again.
I’ll be driving this Toyota for as long as it will go, which is substantially farther than a GM will go, and then I”ll buy another Toyota. If they’re still available.
!@#$%^&*( Stalinists. They’ll have to kill me and seize my bank accounts to ever get me to buy another GM. And judging by all our economic future, buying new cars might become a sport of the elite, like windsurfing off the Vineyard.
’69 F-100 = 310K, original engine (overhauled a couple times). My farm truck, so it doesn’t see a lot of road miles any more.
’64 VW Beetle = 300K + (bought it with over 200K, replaced the original engine at 270K)
’71 Vega = 220K (first car – came with a very thorough education in auto repair at no extra charge!)
’98 Grand Caravan = 220K, still going strong with the eldest son
’90 Honda Civic Hatchback – we put 165K on it, then sold it to my brother, who ran it to 220K as well as into the back of an Expedition, and then sold it (still running) to some kids who wanted to race it.
’00 TDI New Beetle = 178K, just getting broken in, 45+ mpg
’05 Town & Country = our newest, with about 65K so far. Plan to run it to 200K or more if it holds together (build quality is nowhere near the ’98)
Don’t own all of those anymore and there have been others, and most of them have been run well into the high 100s or more. Unless you end up with a real lemon, you’re almost always going to come out ahead financially keeping a car a long time and paying for regular maintenance. Doing the labor yourself where you can saves a pile of $$$.
Oh, out here where our nearest neighbor is a mile away, we don’t have much in the way of public transportation… so vehicles are a necessity, at least for us.
’69 F-100 = 310K, original engine (overhauled a couple times). My farm truck, so it doesn’t see a lot of road miles any more.
’64 VW Beetle = 300K + (bought it with over 200K, replaced the original engine at 270K)
’71 Vega = 220K (first car – came with a very thorough education in auto repair at no extra charge!)
’98 Grand Caravan = 220K, still going strong with the eldest son
’90 Honda Civic Hatchback – we put 165K on it, then sold it to my brother, who ran it to 220K as well as into the back of an Expedition, and then sold it (still running) to some kids who wanted to race it.
’00 TDI New Beetle = 178K, just getting broken in, 45+ mpg
’05 Town & Country = our newest, with about 65K so far. Plan to run it to 200K or more if it holds together (build quality is nowhere near the ’98)
Don’t own all of those anymore and there have been others, and most of them have been run well into the high 100s or more. Unless you end up with a real lemon, you’re almost always going to come out ahead financially keeping a car a long time and paying for regular maintenance. Doing the labor yourself where you can saves a pile of $$$.
Oh, out here where our nearest neighbor is a mile away, we don’t have much in the way of public transportation… so vehicles are a necessity, at least for us.
We have 150,000 on the GM Suburban purchased when the kids were younger. We will keep it another couple years until the last kid goes to college and then replace it with a small non-Government Motors car. Been a great vehicle for hauling the kids’ friends and soccer teams in, but due to the bail out I will never buy another GM car.
We have 150,000 on the GM Suburban purchased when the kids were younger. We will keep it another couple years until the last kid goes to college and then replace it with a small non-Government Motors car. Been a great vehicle for hauling the kids’ friends and soccer teams in, but due to the bail out I will never buy another GM car.
My 1985 Nissan truck had 312,000 miles when I finally sold it and it looked very good. The guy who bought it came back to get some parts and told me “It runs a lot better than I thought it would, I’m even going to fix the AC”. I see him driving it now and then.
I bought another Nissan truck but may not be as obsessive about keeping it so long.
My 1985 Nissan truck had 312,000 miles when I finally sold it and it looked very good. The guy who bought it came back to get some parts and told me “It runs a lot better than I thought it would, I’m even going to fix the AC”. I see him driving it now and then.
I bought another Nissan truck but may not be as obsessive about keeping it so long.
Blame it on automation. Each part, even the simplest, cheapest is made by automation, weighed, viewed, even ultrasound and compared against a data bank. Heck even the machines that make the parts check themselves. So, you have almost no failure of a part in a part in the engine or car.
Further, the quality of the materials, the steel, the plastics, glass have all improved.
Then there are the engine computers that warm up the car, and adjust for air temp, load, altitude( anyone remember jets? ). The computers even prevent you from red lining or damaging your engine.
F
Blame it on automation. Each part, even the simplest, cheapest is made by automation, weighed, viewed, even ultrasound and compared against a data bank. Heck even the machines that make the parts check themselves. So, you have almost no failure of a part in a part in the engine or car.
Further, the quality of the materials, the steel, the plastics, glass have all improved.
Then there are the engine computers that warm up the car, and adjust for air temp, load, altitude( anyone remember jets? ). The computers even prevent you from red lining or damaging your engine.
F
Blame it on automation. Each part, even the simplest, cheapest is made by automation, weighed, viewed, even ultrasound and compared against a data bank. Heck even the machines that make the parts check themselves. So, you have almost no failure of a part in a part in the engine or car.
Further, the quality of the materials, the steel, the plastics, glass have all improved.
Then there are the engine computers that warm up the car, and adjust for air temp, load, altitude( anyone remember jets? ). The computers even prevent you from red lining or damaging your engine.
F
I have 190,000 on a 2002 Hyundai Elantra. I put 100 miles per weekday on it, of which 66 miles are over gravel roads delivering papers in the countryside. I beat the crap out of it. The Elantra has been hit by 6 deer, numerous raccoons, and bunnies too numerous to count. Repairs are remarkably cheap when you do the work instead of paying someone.
I have a 1995 Toyota Camry with 185,000 miles which my son is using. With the exception of routine maintenance, and replacing the CV joints I’ve done almost zero repairs. It runs like its brand new.
I just bought a 1999 Lexus ES300 with 122,000 miles on it. I hated driving our Santa Fe which I was using because my son is using the Camry. With the exception of a strut mount, this Lexus drives like its new.
We have a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe with 70,000 miles on it. This is the best vehicle I’ve ever driven in the snow. I’m never worried about getting stuck unless I get high centered in huge snow drift. When other people are slipping and sliding I tool along like the roads are dry. Driving in normal conditions, it’s a pig. Underpowered and lousy handling.
Best thing of all is that the annual registration taxes and fees are low. Not like my wife’s new highlander. Those taxes are above $400.
I have 190,000 on a 2002 Hyundai Elantra. I put 100 miles per weekday on it, of which 66 miles are over gravel roads delivering papers in the countryside. I beat the crap out of it. The Elantra has been hit by 6 deer, numerous raccoons, and bunnies too numerous to count. Repairs are remarkably cheap when you do the work instead of paying someone.
I have a 1995 Toyota Camry with 185,000 miles which my son is using. With the exception of routine maintenance, and replacing the CV joints I’ve done almost zero repairs. It runs like its brand new.
I just bought a 1999 Lexus ES300 with 122,000 miles on it. I hated driving our Santa Fe which I was using because my son is using the Camry. With the exception of a strut mount, this Lexus drives like its new.
We have a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe with 70,000 miles on it. This is the best vehicle I’ve ever driven in the snow. I’m never worried about getting stuck unless I get high centered in huge snow drift. When other people are slipping and sliding I tool along like the roads are dry. Driving in normal conditions, it’s a pig. Underpowered and lousy handling.
Best thing of all is that the annual registration taxes and fees are low. Not like my wife’s new highlander. Those taxes are above $400.
I have 190,000 on a 2002 Hyundai Elantra. I put 100 miles per weekday on it, of which 66 miles are over gravel roads delivering papers in the countryside. I beat the crap out of it. The Elantra has been hit by 6 deer, numerous raccoons, and bunnies too numerous to count. Repairs are remarkably cheap when you do the work instead of paying someone.
I have a 1995 Toyota Camry with 185,000 miles which my son is using. With the exception of routine maintenance, and replacing the CV joints I’ve done almost zero repairs. It runs like its brand new.
I just bought a 1999 Lexus ES300 with 122,000 miles on it. I hated driving our Santa Fe which I was using because my son is using the Camry. With the exception of a strut mount, this Lexus drives like its new.
We have a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe with 70,000 miles on it. This is the best vehicle I’ve ever driven in the snow. I’m never worried about getting stuck unless I get high centered in huge snow drift. When other people are slipping and sliding I tool along like the roads are dry. Driving in normal conditions, it’s a pig. Underpowered and lousy handling.
Best thing of all is that the annual registration taxes and fees are low. Not like my wife’s new highlander. Those taxes are above $400.
I have 57000 miles on my 2008 Toyota Tundra.
And I will drive my suddenly accelerating Toyota Tundra for around another 50,000 miles. And then I will trade it in for another suddenly accelerating Toyota product.
Screw government motors. What happens when you have a car company owned by the govt? You are seeing it.
I have 57000 miles on my 2008 Toyota Tundra.
And I will drive my suddenly accelerating Toyota Tundra for around another 50,000 miles. And then I will trade it in for another suddenly accelerating Toyota product.
Screw government motors. What happens when you have a car company owned by the govt? You are seeing it.
I have 57000 miles on my 2008 Toyota Tundra.
And I will drive my suddenly accelerating Toyota Tundra for around another 50,000 miles. And then I will trade it in for another suddenly accelerating Toyota product.
Screw government motors. What happens when you have a car company owned by the govt? You are seeing it.
My record was 360,000 miles on my ’92 Honda Civic (retired in 1997 – I drove a LOT as a courier).
My current ’93 Civic has 238,000 miles on it, and I expect to break my previous record in less than 3 years. It has required some maintenance which didn’t occur on the ’92, but I’m sure its age has something to do with that (to contradict Indiana Jones, it’s the years AND the mileage).
My record was 360,000 miles on my ’92 Honda Civic (retired in 1997 – I drove a LOT as a courier).
My current ’93 Civic has 238,000 miles on it, and I expect to break my previous record in less than 3 years. It has required some maintenance which didn’t occur on the ’92, but I’m sure its age has something to do with that (to contradict Indiana Jones, it’s the years AND the mileage).
My record was 360,000 miles on my ’92 Honda Civic (retired in 1997 – I drove a LOT as a courier).
My current ’93 Civic has 238,000 miles on it, and I expect to break my previous record in less than 3 years. It has required some maintenance which didn’t occur on the ’92, but I’m sure its age has something to do with that (to contradict Indiana Jones, it’s the years AND the mileage).
1995 Honda Accord 210,000, 2000 Subaru Legacy 203,000. I do my own maintenance and many repairs. I use synthetic everything. Original trans and engine on both, neither burn oil.
All stick shifts, all driven more or less into the ground. We have a lot in common.